Chapter 4.29.1
4.29.1 crabapples (Malus fusca)
Jessica Collier, University of Guelph, Canada
Suggested citation for this chapter.
Collier,J. (2022) Fleshy Fruits. In The Student Encyclopedia of Canadian Indigenous Foods. Editor, M.N. Raizada, University of Guelph, Canada. http://www.firstnationsfoods.org/
Background
The food item evaluated in this report is Malus fusca, also known as wild Pacific crabapples, an important resource for Pacific coastal Indigenous communities for many centuries.
Biology of Malus fusca
Pacific crabapples are small deciduous trees with thorned branches that often grow as a thicket of shrubs or trees with multiple trunks (Routson et al., 2012). Standing at 2-12 m in height, the tree grows small, white to light pink flowers which produce oval-shaped crabapples varying from yellow to red (Reynolds & Dupres, 2018). The fruit grows in bunches with long stems, is green when unripe, and contains 3-8 seeds (de Echeverria, 2010). The trees are naturally abundant at low- to mid-altitudes on the Pacific coast of North America, ranging from northern California to southern Alaska (Routson et al., 2012). They typically grow in moist habitats such as river bottoms and meadows (Routson et al., 2012). Pacific crabapples are the only apple species native to the Pacific coast and they are closely related to Asian wild apples (Reynolds & Dupres, 2018). It is thought that they were brought to North America by humans around 12500 BCE (Reynolds & Dupres, 2018).
Associated indigenous peoples
Historically, Pacific moolks (crabapple in Smalgy’ax) were used by over 33 Coastal Indigenous groups such as the Chinook, Haida, and Coast Salish (de Echeverria, 2010). The earliest settlement of the Pacific coast occurred following the most recent ice age around 14,000 years ago (Kew, 2018). The diverse geography of the area which includes fjords, beaches, mountains, and archipelagos led to the development of sheltered villages along the coast (Kew, 2018). These communities were unique because they were built around the maritime resources that were available, such as salmon and cedar (Kew, 2018). In general, Pacific Coast Indigenous peoples would live in plank houses, large post-and-beam buildings constructed with cedar planks (Kew, 2018). The people living in each house would often be a close-knit mix of immediate family and their spouses (Kew, 2018). The Northwest Coast Indigenous peoples are also associated with many different cultural practices, notably making totem poles, a variety of music, songs, and decorative arts (Kew, 2018). The majority of languages spoken by Indigenous peoples on the Northwest coast are part of the Wakashan, Salishan, and Tsimshian language families (de Echeverria, 2010).
Pacific coastal indigenous peoples historical use of Malus fusca
All components of Malus fusca trees were used by Indigenous communities, although the fruit was the most readily used component (de Echeverria, 2010). The bark and roots were used for traditional medicinal practices, the hardwood was used for tool handles and fishing equipment, and the fruit was a valuable trading good that was served at feasts. However, unless the items were traded, the products that were made from the trees were found almost exclusively in the area where the trees naturally grew (de Echeverria, 2010). The dried roots of the crabapple trees were also used to sew baskets made from birch bark (de Echeverria, 2010). Finally, M. fusca was used in dowries by northern groups such as the Kwakwak’wakw (de Echeverria, 2010).
As a result of their value, the trees were often translocated along the coast and further inland to where villages were located (de Echeverria, 2010). The Nisga’a people would transport saplings to new village sites when they moved to provide themselves with an important resource close to their camp (de Echeverria, 2010). Further, another common practice by Indigenous peoples such as the Tsimshian was planting orchards (high-density clusters of trees) near their villages (de Echeverria, 2010). Placing pegs around the area of the crabapple trees would be used to mark ownership rights of the trees and the trees would oftentimes be passed down to future generations via inheritance (de Echeverria, 2010).
Harvesting practices were fairly consistent between different groups whereas there were many variations in the preparation, storage, and consumption practices (de Echeverria, 2010). Ripening apples were collected during the fall, usually around September and October, and were stored in water or oil/grease from eulachon and seal (de Echeverria, 2010). Since the crabapples were harvested in bunches with the stems still attached, they would need to be removed (de Echeverria, 2010). Some groups such as the Kwakwak’wakw, Gitga’at, and Haisla would remove the stems right after cooking whereas the Haida would destem the apples right before a feast (de Echeverria, 2010). The Halkomen and likely other groups would harvest and store unripe crabapples in cattail bags until they became ripe (de Echeverria, 2010). Other cooking methods for the fruit include steaming, boiling, or over-ripening for consumption in the past, and it is presently used in jams, jellies, and ciders (de Echeverria, 2010).
Benefits of Malus fusca use and production
Pacific wild crabapples, like domesticated apples, are relatively high in vitamin C, antioxidants, potassium, carbohydrates, pectin, and fibre which can provide nutrition for humans and many wild animals (de Echeverria, 2010). Black bears were especially known for eating the crabapples and feeding them to their cubs as the fruits ripened on the trees in the fall, the same time as when the bears are catching salmon (de Echeverria, 2010). The bark of M. fusca was used as medicine to commonly treat skin ailments and internal issues by making tea or scraping the juice off of the bark (de Echeverria, 2010). When eaten, the anthocyanins present in crabapples are known to reduce the risk of heart disease, cancer, diabetes, Alzheimer’s, and other degenerative diseases (Zhang et al., 2015). Further, M. fusca is resistant to apple scab and fire blight and is used in plant breeding to provide a source of genetic variation and to create resistant cultivars (Brown & Maloney, 2015). Crabapple trees can also be planted around the perimeter of domestic apple orchards or fields to act as a windbreak and to promote pollination (Wilson & Elfving, 2009). Lastly, by promoting the production of Pacific crabapples, it simultaneously promotes the recovery and continuation of spoken indigenous knowledge, traditions and practices associated with the coastal communities, and their food systems.
Limitations for production
Presently, the use of M. fusca has greatly declined for a few reasons however both Indigenous and non-Indigenous peoples will still occasionally use crabapples in the present day to make jams, jellies, and ciders (de Echeverria, 2010). Firstly, the tough thorns on the trees make harvesting difficult. Secondly, the bitter taste does not appeal to the younger generations, especially when they have other options such as the sweeter domestic apples. The trees are a wild crop that has never been bred selectively, meaning that the fruit it produces is very small compared to domestic apples (de Echeverria, 2010). It would therefore take many more Pacific crabapples to equal the same amount of fruit as the average domestic apple. The changing climate and weather patterns make it harder to produce the fruit and their habitat is also threatened by rising sea levels (de Echeverria, 2010). The grease that was commonly used to store the crabapples is no longer readily available which has also caused a decline in use and a change in processing techniques. Lastly, the declined interest in crabapple growing has led to decreased management of the orchards which in turn reduces the quality and quantity of the fruit (de Echeverria, 2010). For example, the trees were constantly pruned and weeds near the base of the trees were removed to limit competition, practices that are no longer consistent today.
Toxicity
All parts of the Pacific crabapple trees are generally safe to consume and use other than the seeds which contain cyanide (Huschen & Horn, 2012). The seeds are toxic to both humans and animals if consumed in relatively large quantities, similar to domestic apple seeds (Huschen & Horn, 2012).
References
1. Brown, S. K., Maloney, K. E. (2015). Apple breeding, genetics, and genomics. Cornell University, School of Integrative Plant Science.
2. De Echeverria, V. R. W. (2013). Moolks (Pacific crabapple, Malus fusca) on the North coast of British Columbia: Knowledge and meaning in Gitga’at culture. [Master’s thesis, University of Victoria].
3. Encyclopædia Britannica. (2008). Distribution of Northwest Coast Indians [Image]. Encyclopædia Britannica. https://www.britannica.com/topic/Northwest-Coast-Indian
4. Huschen, M. S., & Horn, D. J. (2012) Mass death of wintering American robins (Turdus migratorius) in Decatur, Illinois. Transactions of the Illinois State Academy of Science, 105(2), 51-55. https://ilacadofsci.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/105-06MS1115-print.pdf
5. Kew, M. (2018, January 11). Northwest coast Indigenous peoples in Canada. The Canadian Encyclopedia. https://www.thecanadianencyclopedia.ca/en/article/aboriginal-people-northwest-coast
6. Landscape Plants - Malus fusca. (2021). [Image]. Retrieved from https://landscapeplants.oregonstate.edu/plants/malus-fusca
7. Reynolds, N. D., Dupres, C. (2018). The Pacific crabapple (Malus fusca) and Cowlitz cultural resurgence. Journal of Northwest Anthropolgy, 52(1), 36-62.
8. Routson, K. J., Volk, G. M., Richards, C. M., Smith, S. E., Nabhan, G. P., & Echeverria, V. W. (2012). Genetic Variation and Distribution of Pacific Crabapple. Journal of the American Society for Horticultural Science, 137(5), 325-332. doi:10.21273/jashs.137.5.325
9. Zhang, J., Han, Z., Tian, J., Zhang, X., Song, T-T., & Yao, Y. (2015) The expression level of anthocyanidin synthase determines the anthocyanin content of crabapple (Malus sp.)petals. Acta Physiologiae Plantarum, 37(109). https://doi-org.subzero.lib.uoguelph.ca/10.1007/s11738-015-1857-0